REVIEW AND PICTURES: Chartwell Restaurant at Aldwark Manor

At the turn of the century, I wrote about information technology in New Zealand and the IT firms had deep pockets then, and they invited me to the finest establishments in Auckland and Sydney.

Some years later, whilst freelancing I would interview some of Australia and New Zealand’s leading chefs. Naturally, I needed a photo of their signature dish and once they had made it, we could never let it go to waste, could we?

And since returning home to work in York, I have enjoyed many a fine a fine meal in York and across North and West Yorkshire.

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But I must say, Chartwell at Aldwark Manor Estate has delivered the best I can remember, as one might expect with a 7-course tasting menu costing £95 and a 10-course tasting menu £130.

I was ecstatic to be invited back as their guest to sample the new £3million Chartwell restaurant, having enjoyed a most excellent stay at the venue between York and Boroughbridge earlier this year.

The new 24-cover restaurant features eclectic and unusual designs, all oozing quality, character and individuality. Well, Aldwark’s slogan is ‘never ordinary.’

I arrived with an old schoolmate, who drove, and since he is vegetarian, we were able to review two differing 7-course menus.

We arrived just before 7 and were seated by friendly and efficient staff, who were keen to explain what we were about to enjoy.

Good thing too as there were some things we had not experienced before, so yes, at times we might be short on words because we just cannot compare it to anything else, the flavours would be so unique, but all was lovely, whatever it was.

We started off with a glass of sparkling wine, which my friend who is not a wine drinker thoroughly enjoyed, before he moved on to non-alcoholic lagers.

I polished off a bottle of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, with was crisp and smooth and supplied by the respected House of Hallgarten.

We started off with snacks, featuring smoked sea trout, wasabi, poacher, nori and burnt chives for me, which was a flavoursome delight, with crispiness and strong flavours. I must admit I got my finger out to ensure no waste, it was so good.

Richard enjoyed similar, with beetroot in place of the sea trout. The chives, he said, added sweetness and loving the poacher, said ‘it’s not just cheese.’

The cheddar brioche was a popular second course, featuring chicken for me and caramelised onion for Richard. The butter was soft, creamy and gorgeous but though lovely, neither the chicken or the onion came through for either of us.

Next, came smoked beef, caviar, smoked eel and celeriac for me and for Richard a salt baked, crisp carrot, also done in golden raisin and hazelnut milk.

Again, a new experience, so hard to describe, except thoroughly wonderful. The eel was not off-putting, it was gorgeous.

Richard was amazed at what you could do with a carrot, loving the crispy ‘glass’ carrot piece, saying it all tasted sweet and was all skilfully put together. It was his favourite course overall.

Next came a barbecued scallop bisque with cauliflower and apple. It had a strong apple taste and was so good, I would have loved a big dish of it. Again, it was time to finger the bowl again.

For Richard it was roast leek, truffle and grape. Not really his thing, which I guess is a challenge with tasting plates all chosen by the chef, but he still enjoyed it, noting it too was beautifully put together.

Now, the restaurant was filling up nicely and whilst we were dining, Richard had been sending pictures of the food to his wife. It turned out she was at Slimming World!

Anyway, next came the mains, which for me was duck, a most tender and delicious piece of pink meat, far better than any duck I have eaten, including in Poland. That was my favourite course and again, it was out with the finger to ensure none of the excellent Perigueux (Madeira wine and truffle) sauce was wasted.

Richard said his asparagus was cooked to perfection and whilst he could not make out his smoked butter sauce in pasta, it was 10/10, he said.

Then, we both enjoyed passion fruit curd, with mango and marigold, which had a lovely crispiness, but maybe was a little sweet.

The final course was strawberry cheesecake, which again was skilfully presented, with strawberries done six different ways. We both agreed it was ‘tasty and yummy’. The sorbet was excellent and “I did enjoy the lovely fruit,” Richard said.

We were asked if we wanted anything else, such as a cheese course and though reasonably full, we were not stuffed, just content.

Richard said he had been watching the staff throughout, noting they would attend to the other guests, engaging in conversation, explaining what things are, as they did with us.

Earlier, Aldwark estate director Christophe Gitton introduced himself to us and the other diners, as did executive chef Chris O’Callaghan. Throughout the evening you could also watch all the action in the kitchen, broadcast on a large television.

Talking of the telly, I had been looking forward to watching the Hotel Inspector. But at 9.30pm, it was too late to return home in time to see it, after a relaxing night of well-recommended sheer indulgence you will never forget.

With such quality of food, service and originality, Aldwark Manor Estate most certainly does not need a visit from Alex Polizzi. If she did turn up, they could probably tell her a thing or two!